The Monochrome Chronicles #29: Alternative Identities

This is a “retro” episode of The Monochrome Chronicles.  More concisely, a mostly retro episode.  The theme goes back to my time in NYC, with a few images from Tokyo.

The concept of alternative identity is difficult to explain in words, and photography may be a better medium to show what I mean.  Identity itself is a fluid construct, difficult to define.  Alternative identity, then, would seem to be more difficult to define.  Not so.  I have come across alternative identities in various milieux, as will become evident in the photographs.  I should like to claim that it is easier to recognize an alternative identity, and capture it on film – easier, that is, than to recognize someone’s identity.  Therein lies a conundrum.  When I’m behind the camera I see only an intriguing subject for a portrait.  Recognition of the alternative identity comes only later, often in the darkroom or thereafter.  To resolve this conundrum I defer to my little inner voice, which is more perceptive, more sensitive than I am myself.   Such is my long-winded explanation for the street photographer’s dictum:  shoot first and think later.  Such displays of alternative identity intrigue me, for what reason I don’t know.  The outcome is this series “Alternative Identities.”

This is Iggy, for me the epitome of alternative identity.  I need to justify that statement.  Chance encounters with Iggy over several years at Wigstock in NYC, as well as at the Easter Parade, gave me a deeper impression of Iggy’s alternative identity. We never spoke.  She seemed to glide through the crowd, never speaking to anyone, presumably part of her alternative identity.  Glamour, poise, elegance, fashion-plate, cool, aloof – all these words come to mind when describing Iggy, but her alternative identity as what drew my camera like a magnet.

Mere words fail to describe my reaction to this street portrait from Tokyo’s Gay Pride event.  I guess I’ve painted myself into a corner with that sentence.  The beauty in this image is haunting, almost unreal.  Without doubt, the make-up, the bleached hair, the tiara and the tinted contact lenses contribute to the aura – but something else defines the alternative identity.  Maybe that something else is pride, the self assurance of having created this identity, a spirit that goes deeper than the external beauty.  My first impulse was correct: words fail me here.  Maybe the hand gesture is what sets the image apart.

Four images from across the years at Wigstock, NYC’s celebration of drag.  After I took up black-and-white photography, I went to Wigstock every year until I moved to Japan. Wigstock offered me the chance to photograph people on the street in a camera-friendly environment, so to speak.  At first, I must admit, I saw the drag queens as caricatures.  What drew me back again and again was the realization that some of them were men in drag, rather than drag queens.  I could see them as individuals rather than caricatures.
A sunny Sunday afternoon in the autumn would draw thousands of people to Wigstock – many in drag, of course, but non-drag others, too.  The key for me as a photographer, though, was the ability to connect with individual subjects within the thousands of people.  And, eventually, to see them as men rather than men in drag.
This guy especially draws me into the image.  His eyes are compelling, challenging.  His identity is composed of two distinct elements.  The wig, the eye make-up, the ear rings are distinctly fem (in a traditional sense). His moustache and goatee are distinctly masculine.  His grin, accentuated by dimples, and a gleam in his eyes express his challenge.
And, on another level, to find couples within the crowd.  In this instance, the couple found my camera, rather than me finding them.  I didn’t recognize them as a couple at first, but as they walked toward my camera they got closer to one another, finally to this intimate pose.
In this image, traditionally masculine and traditionally feminine features meld together seamlessly to create a new, alternative identity.
A couple, yes, but with such different facial expressions.  On that basis, I can imagine that one of them was eager to go to Wigstock in matching outfits, and the other just went along for a lark.  This is a characteristic of the alternative identity: it is a choice.

An enigma hides behind this persona.  Beauty resides here.  But that beauty is external.  The gown, the diaphanous headwear and the bleached hair contribute to the enigma.  I’m tempted to say that, for me, part of the enigma is the cross-cultural barrier.  All these factors contribute to the strength of this street portrait of someone at Tokyo’s Gay Pride event.

To return to Wigstock, some participants were understated, I might say aggressively understated (or is that an oxymoron?).  Outside of the context of Wigstock, they mightn’t turn any heads in a crowd.  Maybe that is the point, to assume an alternative identity so completely that the outcome is unnoticeable.
Others seemed to take on an identity what was almost a parody of a parody.  This bouffant hair-do might have just stepped out of a beauty parlor in Queens.  It might have been the envy of the other middle-aged women on the block.  Yet in context, it was so understated as to almost go unnoticed.
A photograph of a photographer taking a photograph.  Wigstock was a playground for photographers.  Be-wigged participants would drop their inhibitions and readily agree to being photographed.  This guy stood out for being coiffed, made-up, sun-glassed and dressed to the nines.
Spectators turned out in droves at Wigstock.  This image illustrates the contrast between the guy in drag and the spectator.  Or, to put it another way, between the would-be Devine and her admirer.  Naughty and nice.
A deep story hides behind this façade.  The occasion was the annual Halloween parade in NYC’s West Village, but to see this image either as a Halloween costume or as drag misses the point.  The hat, the coiffure and the dress spell spectacle.  The facial expression hints at the background, the interior persona.  The Halloween parade merely provided the venue for expression of the alternative identity.
Alternative identity or camp?  In the absence of context, the distinction is unclear.  The moue is, obviously, for my camera.  As a face in a crowd she could easily pass unnoticed.  As a street portrait, the image goes much deeper.  The message from a subject to me as the photographer says, “Don’t take this too seriously.” Still, I wonder.  This could be a parody of glamour and fashion.  In the absence of context, it is unclear.  As a street portrait, the image stands by itself.
Another face of Wigstock – at night on the piers.  The Westside piers in NYC had a long and checkered history, including a period when they sat abandoned and became places for illicit furtive activities for gay men.  By the time Wigstock moved to the West Village, the city was in the process of reclaiming the piers for future development.  This pier had been cleared of the dilapidating wooden warehouses, the surface covered with asphalt and the perimeter delimited by chain link fence, making an appropriate setting for a free-ranging event like Wigstock at night.  These two tall blondes – well, they seemed like a contradiction of each other. 
The cast of participants at the night’s event was varied and diverse.  Wigstock, by definition, was a celebration of alternative identities.  Nighttime added another layer to the event.  This blonde with the butterfly in her hair, well, the line between camp and satire becomes blurred.  The mix of anonymity and darkness, albeit with strong overhead lights, allowed the participants greater freedom of expression.
Young people – mostly high-school age and mostly girls – would descend upon an overpass near the Yoyogi train station in Tokyo on Sunday afternoons to express their non-conformity.  Painted faces (often deathly white), bleached or frizzed hair, heavy eye make-up, period costumes, all manner of alternative expressions were the norm, ironically, just for the one afternoon each week.
The cosplay phenomenon has many levels.  Perhaps even speculating about the forces behind it is moot.  It is what it is (or what it was).  For me, it is yet another form of alternative identity.
Cosplay was the term applied to the phenomenon.  The motivation went far deeper than the costumes and exaggerated make-up, I believe.  The real motivation – well, that was a secret held by the members themselves.  Pundits postulated various interpretations, but my personal opinion is that they were, like teenagers in many cultures, rebelling against the conformity of their own culture. 
In Japan, though, the source of their rebellion is different.  Mainstream Japanese culture highly values conformity.  Hence, the adage, “The nail that sticks up is the one that gets pounded down.”  During their school days, teenagers are forced into extremes of conformity – as an outward example, many schools require pupils to wear school uniforms.  Their parents, too, are products of the system that enforces conformity.  Cosplay was, then an outlet for these kids to express their individuality – for one afternoon a week.

Simone, Simone, Simone.  She radiates a certain something.  That “something” is difficult to put into words. In the context of my photographic series, I suspect that this image shows not her alternative identity but rather her true identity.  Possibly an alternative identity lurks somewhere, but this is her public persona.  The photograph comes from the briefest of encounters on the street near my apartment in NYC.  In a sense, Simone and my camera shared an instant attraction.  I was almost a bystander.  We exchanged a few words and then she was gone.

The topic for this episode of The Monochrome Chronicles is my series “Alternative Identities,” which for the most part might be deemed serious fun.  Alternative identities is an elusive concept with many levels.  For me, the first brush with alternative identities came after I moved to NYC.  My first few years in the city pelted me with so many eye-popping experiences.  This was in the late 1970s, not so very long after the Stonewall Rebellion in 1969.  My introduction to the world of what was then called “drag” came later.  That world remained on the periphery for me until after I took up black-and-white photography and started going to Wigstock, which by then had moved from its origin in Thompson Square Park in the East Village to the West Village piers, coincidentally near where I lived.

I suppose I had an approach-avoidance conflict about “drag” at the time.  I saw drag queens as “them,” apart from my milieu.  Once my camera urged me to take in Wigstock one year, though, my point of view changed.  In time I moved past the stereotype of the outrageous drag queen, and I discovered a much deeper element – which eventually became “alternative identity.”

Now my series “Alternative Identities” is a closed book.  In its wake, I could become more free in street photography.  And it was a stepping stone to my subsequent work in portraiture.

In the context of The Monochrome Chronicles, this episode about alternative identities comes close to the end of the series.  This episode and the previous one – Male Nudes – have a common subtheme.  Both focus mainly on my early experience with black-and-white photography back in NYC.  More importantly, though, these are deeply personal photographs.  They come from somewhere deep inside.  Someone once described a photographer’s first public exhibition as being like standing naked on Main Street of your hometown at noon.  How true.  I have the same feeling about these three final episodes.

As I wrote in the introduction, I believe that these photographs express what I mean about alternative identity better than I could express with words.  I feel a special attraction to, and respect for, these subjects.  That said, I must admit that all these have been brief, anonymous encounters.  A double selection bias is at work here.  When I’m on the street, my camera sometimes manages to focus on a single subject in a crowd, or maybe the attraction comes from the subject.  From the opposite viewpoint, my role is to find that one frame of film that expresses the moment of communication.  The world inside my view finder.

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